“Confronting a Masterpiece” by Matt Goulding – Roads & Kingdoms
“A single raw razor clam sheathed in an emerald green cloak of parsley, set in a puddle of mussel juice and dill oil that shimmers like ink splotches across the briny surface. A drift of frozen horseradish bites through the sea below. There’s a reason why this one has been on the menu since the start. If you asked for Noma in a single bite, this would be it.”